Koh Ker, the forgotten capital

A seven-tiered pyramid rising out of the forest, the centrepiece of a short-lived tenth-century capital that is now a World Heritage Site.

Area

Far temples

Start from

Siem Reap town

Distance

about 120 km north-east of town

Time needed

1 long day or an overnight

Best season

November – March

Difficulty

Moderate

Transport

Car with driver

Tickets & rules

Separate ticket at Koh Ker; not included in the Angkor Pass

Why go

Koh Ker is a long way from Siem Reap, and that is its charm. When I visited, there were only a handful of other people, and I spent the afternoon walking from one ruin to the next through dry forest, hearing only cicadas.

The highlight is Prasat Thom, a great pyramid of seven stepped tiers, about thirty-six metres high, that looks more Mayan than Khmer. A wooden staircase leads to the top, from where you see only forest stretching to the horizon.

Around it are dozens of smaller temples, some in good condition and some barely more than piles of stone. Several contain enormous lingas, the largest at Angkor, still standing on their pedestals.

The story

In the early tenth century, King Jayavarman IV moved the capital away from Angkor to Koh Ker, then called Lingapura. The reason is debated; he may have been a rival claimant who simply ruled from his own base. Between 928 and 944, he built an extraordinary number of temples here, many on a monumental scale.

After his death, the capital moved back to Angkor, and Koh Ker was largely abandoned. Its sculptures were known for their dynamism, including huge statues of wrestling monkeys and fighting gods. Many were looted during the war years; some have since been returned to Cambodia from museums and collections abroad, after long campaigns.

Koh Ker was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2023. The area was heavily mined during the conflict years; it has been cleared, but the advice to stay on paths remains.

What strikes me most here is the ambition. In barely sixteen years, a king without the resources of Angkor raised a capital with a reservoir, a sacred road and a pyramid that still dominates the forest. Standing on top of Prasat Thom, looking at nothing but trees, it is easy to imagine how quickly the jungle reclaimed it once the court went home, and how it slept here, half-forgotten, while Angkor rose again to the south.

Getting there

Koh Ker is about two and a half hours by car from town. Most visitors combine it with Beng Mealea, which lies on the way.

Tickets are bought at a checkpoint on the approach road; check current prices.

A suggested plan

1. 6:30Leave town early and drive east.
2. 8:00Stop at Beng Mealea for an hour.
3. 10:30Arrive at Koh Ker and visit Prasat Thom; climb to the top.
4. 12:30Lunch at a stall near the main temple.
5. 13:30 – 15:30Visit the smaller temples, including Prasat Pram and Prasat Krahom.
6. 16:00Head back to town, or stay overnight nearby.

Where to stay

Most visitors go and return in a day. A few simple guesthouses near the site allow an overnight stay and an early start.

Good to know

• Start very early to make the most of the day.
• Bring snacks and water; facilities are limited.
• Prasat Pram has trees growing over two brick towers, lovely in the afternoon light.
• A driver who knows the site well is worth paying a little more for.