An evening at the Phare circus

A circus that is really theatre, music and acrobatics telling Cambodian stories, performed by young artists under a big top on the edge of town.

Area

Siem Reap town

Start from

Siem Reap town

Distance

about 2 km from the centre

Time needed

an evening

Best season

All year

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

Tuk-tuk

Tickets & rules

Ticket for the show; booking ahead is wise in high season

Why go

I almost did not go, thinking it would be a tourist show. It was one of the best evenings of my trip. Phare is not a circus with animals and clowns, but a mixture of theatre, dance, live music and astonishing acrobatics, used to tell stories about Cambodian life, history and myths.

The performers are young, energetic and very skilled, and the shows change every few weeks. One night it might be a tale of village life and spirits; another, a story about growing up in the shadow of the past. There is humour, emotion and plenty of gasps when a performer flies through the air.

The setting under the big top is intimate, with the audience close to the stage, and the atmosphere is warm and friendly.

The story

Phare Ponleu Selpak, the brightness of the arts, was founded in 1994 in Battambang by a group of young Cambodian men who had grown up in a refugee camp on the Thai border. There they had taken part in art classes, which helped them process what they had lived through. On returning home, they wanted to offer the same opportunity to children in their community.

The school now teaches visual arts, music, theatre and circus, as well as providing general education. Phare, The Cambodian Circus in Siem Reap, opened in 2013 as a social enterprise, giving graduates a professional career and funding the school.

Many performers come from disadvantaged backgrounds, and the circus has become a symbol of the revival of the arts in Cambodia.

The music is played live by a small band at the side of the ring, mixing traditional Khmer instruments with drums and guitars, and the painted backdrops are often made by students of the visual arts school. It is a whole artistic community on show, not just acrobats, and after the performance the artists often come out to chat with the audience, which says a lot about the spirit of the place.

Getting there

The big top is on the edge of town, a short tuk-tuk ride from the centre. Shows usually begin in the evening; check current times and book online or at the ticket office.

Arrive a little early to visit the small shop and café.

A suggested plan

1. 18:30Arrive by tuk-tuk; browse the art shop and have a drink.
2. 20:00Watch the show, around an hour long.
3. 21:15Return to town for a late dinner.

Where to stay

Stay in town; the circus is a short ride from anywhere.

Good to know

• Book ahead in high season.
• Seats nearer the front are more immersive.
• Check the programme online to see which show is on.
• The shop sells artwork by students and graduates.