Lovina: black sand, hot springs and a Buddhist monastery

A sleepy north-coast stretch with calm sea, dawn boat trips and a Buddhist monastery in the hills.

Area

North

Start from

Singaraja

Distance

about 2.5–3 hours from Ubud

Time needed

2 days

Best season

All year; drier than the south

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

Car or bus; scooter locally

Tickets & rules

Small entry fees at the monastery and hot springs

Why go

Lovina is a string of villages along the north coast, with black volcanic sand and calm water. It's slower and quieter than the south, with local warungs, fishing boats on the beach and sunsets over the sea.

Inland, the Brahmavihara-Arama is a Buddhist monastery with terraces, stupas and a small copy of Borobudur, set among forest above the coast.

Nearby, the Banjar hot springs have pools fed by warm sulphur water through carved dragon-head spouts.

The story

Lovina's name is said to have been coined in the mid-twentieth century by a member of the Singaraja royal family, who combined 'love' with 'Indonesia'. Before tourism, the area was mostly fishing villages.

Singaraja, just east, was the capital of the Dutch administration in Bali, and its old port quarter has colonial buildings and Chinese temples, showing the north's long history as a trading coast.

The Brahmavihara-Arama was founded in the 1970s and is the largest Buddhist monastery in Bali, a reminder that Bali's religious life is more diverse than it first appears.

Getting there

Drive from the south via Bedugul and Singaraja. Lovina combines well with Munduk and Sekumpul.

A suggested plan

1. Day 1Arrive, sunset on the beach.
2. Day 2Early boat trip if you choose; Brahmavihara-Arama monastery; afternoon at Banjar hot springs.

Where to stay

Guesthouses and small hotels along the coast.

Good to know

• Snorkelling on the reefs is gentle and good for beginners.
• Dress respectfully at the monastery.