The Turquoise Pools of Kuang Si

A tiered limestone waterfall tumbles through the forest into a chain of milky turquoise pools, with a bear rescue centre at the entrance and a steep trail to the top.

Area

Falls & countryside

Start from

Luang Prabang

Distance

about 30 km by road

Time needed

half a day to 1 day

Best season

All year; clearest water November – April, most powerful falls in the rainy season

Difficulty

Easy to moderate

Transport

Tuk-tuk, minivan or scooter

Tickets & rules

Entry ticket; swimming only in the designated pools

Why go

Kuang Si is the most photographed natural place in Laos, and for good reason. A main fall of around sixty metres pours over a limestone ledge and then cascades through a series of pools of startling milky blue, divided by natural terraces of travertine and shaded by tall trees.

Swimming in those pools on a hot afternoon, with small fish nibbling at your toes and the sound of the falls all around, is one of the purest pleasures of a trip to Laos. A steep trail climbs beside the main fall to the top, where shallow pools and a quiet forest stream give a completely different feeling.

Go early, or late in the afternoon, to avoid the busiest hours; the pools are at their most magical when the light comes through the trees and the crowds are still on the road.

The story

The colour comes from the limestone. Water flowing through the karst hills dissolves calcium carbonate, which then precipitates in the pools, scattering light into that famous turquoise and slowly building the soft terraces over which the water spills.

At the entrance, a rescue centre run for many years by a conservation group cares for Asiatic black bears, often called moon bears, rescued from the illegal wildlife trade and bile farms. The bears live in forested enclosures with platforms and hammocks, and watching them is a sobering reminder of how much pressure wildlife faces in the region.

The falls have been a favourite picnic spot for Luang Prabang families for generations. On weekends and holidays you will see groups of locals laying out mats, sharing sticky rice, grilled chicken and papaya salad, and splashing in the lower pools in their clothes.

The village of Ban Thapene lies just below the falls, and near the road is a butterfly park and the village itself, where Khmu and Lao families sell fruit, grilled fish and handicrafts.

Getting there

Shared minivans and tuk-tuks leave from the old town, usually from near the main street, in the late morning and return in the afternoon; you can also hire a tuk-tuk for your group and choose your own times. The ride takes about forty-five minutes.

Riding a rented scooter is possible on a good road, but take care on the curves and in the traffic of larger vehicles.

A suggested plan

1. 8:00Leave town early by tuk-tuk to beat the crowds.
2. 9:00Visit the bear rescue centre near the entrance, then walk up the lower pools.
3. 9:45See the main fall and climb the trail to the top, about 20–30 minutes.
4. 11:00Come down and swim in the designated lower pools.
5. 12:30Lunch at the stalls by the entrance or in Ban Thapene, then return to town.

Where to stay

Most people visit from the old town, but there are a few rural lodges near the falls for a quieter overnight.

Good to know

• Bring swimwear, a towel and something to cover up for the walk between pools.
• The top trail is steep and muddy after rain; wear proper shoes, not flip-flops.
• Lockers or changing areas are available near the swimming pools; carry little.