Up the Mekong to the Pak Ou Caves

A leisurely boat trip up the Mekong ends at two riverside caves filled with thousands of old Buddha images, at the mouth of the Nam Ou river.

Area

Mekong & Nam Khan

Start from

Mekong riverfront, Luang Prabang

Distance

about 25 km upstream by boat

Time needed

half a day to 1 day

Best season

All year; calmest November – April

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

Long-tail boat from the old town landing, or road plus a short ferry

Tickets & rules

Entry ticket for the caves

Why go

For many visitors the Pak Ou caves are a box to tick, but I think the journey is the point. Two hours chugging upstream in a long wooden boat, with the brown water curling past, fishermen checking nets, children waving from sandbanks and water buffalo standing in the shallows, is one of the best ways to understand how the Mekong shapes life here.

The caves themselves are atmospheric. Tham Ting, the lower cave, opens directly onto the river and is crowded with Buddha images of every size, many of them old and weathered, some no bigger than a hand. A steep stairway leads to Tham Theung, the upper cave, which is deeper and dark and best explored with a torch.

The trip back, drifting downstream with the current, is quicker and drowsier. Stop at Ban Xang Hai, the ‘jar-making village’, now known for its rice spirit, and you have a well-rounded day on the water.

The story

The caves face the point where the Nam Ou joins the Mekong; Pak Ou literally means ‘mouth of the Ou’. Long before Buddhism reached Laos, the caves were probably revered as the homes of river spirits, and many Lao still mix Buddhist devotion with respect for the phi, the spirits of place.

Over centuries, kings and villagers brought Buddha images here, and the caves became a pilgrimage site, especially during Lao New Year, when people travel up the river to wash the images and make offerings. The collection is now said to number in the thousands, an unplanned museum of styles from different centuries.

Ban Xang Hai once made the large clay jars used to store rice spirit and fermented fish. Today the village mostly distils lao-lao, a strong rice whisky, and you will see bottles of it, some with snakes or scorpions coiled inside, along the lanes. There are textile stalls too, and a small temple worth a quiet look.

Along the way you will notice how much the river changes with the seasons. In the dry months sandbanks and rock reefs emerge, and families plant gardens on them; in the rains the water rises by many metres, swallowing the banks, and boatmen must read the currents with great care.

Getting there

Boats leave from the landing on the Mekong side of the old town in the morning. You can join a shared boat booked through a travel agency or guesthouse, or charter one with other travellers. The trip upstream takes around two hours, the return about an hour and a half.

Alternatively, go by road to the village of Ban Pak Ou, about an hour away, and cross on a short ferry; it is quicker but misses the river.

A suggested plan

1. 8:30Board a long-tail boat at the old-town landing.
2. 9:30Pass riverside villages and sandbank gardens; bring a hat and a scarf against the wind.
3. 10:45Arrive at the caves, visit Tham Ting, then climb to Tham Theung with a torch.
4. 12:00Lunch at a simple riverside restaurant opposite the caves.
5. 13:00Float downstream and stop at Ban Xang Hai before returning by mid-afternoon.

Where to stay

Base yourself in the old town; this is a classic half-day or day trip.

Good to know

• Bring a torch for the upper cave; the light inside is minimal.
• Sit near the middle of the boat for the smoothest ride and least spray.
• Tasting lao-lao is fine, but it is very strong; go easy before the boat ride.