The Lao Ramayana and a Riverside Evening

An evening of classical Lao dance drama in the palace grounds, followed by a slow riverside walk and dinner under the lanterns along the Mekong.

Area

Markets & evenings

Start from

Royal Palace grounds

Distance

walking distance

Time needed

evening

Best season

All year; performances on set evenings of the week

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

On foot

Tickets & rules

Ticket for the performance

Why go

Phralak Phralam, the Lao version of the Ramayana epic, has been performed at the Lao court for centuries, and a troupe still stages it in a small theatre in the grounds of the Royal Palace. The dancers move with slow, precise gestures, wearing golden crowns and masks, accompanied by a traditional orchestra of gongs, xylophones and bamboo flutes.

It is not a long show, around an hour, and it gives a glimpse of the court culture that made Luang Prabang a royal capital. Even without understanding every episode, the costumes and music are hypnotic.

Afterwards, walk along the Mekong riverfront as the restaurants light their lanterns and families gather for dinner. It is a simple evening, but one of my favourites in the town.

The story

The Ramayana came to Southeast Asia from India more than a thousand years ago and was adapted in each country: as the Ramakien in Thailand, the Reamker in Cambodia and Phralak Phralam in Laos. In the Lao version, the hero Rama is often seen as a previous incarnation of the Buddha, and the story is set in a landscape of the Mekong.

The dance style is closely related to court dance traditions of the region. Masked characters, like the demon king and the monkey warrior Hanuman, are danced by men, while the refined roles of the heroes and heroines were traditionally performed by women, with every gesture carrying meaning.

The royal ballet troupe was disbanded after 1975, but its traditions were kept alive by former dancers and teachers, and the troupe was revived in later decades. The performances in the palace grounds help sustain it.

The riverfront along the Mekong was once lined with the houses of officials and merchants, and some of the old shophouses still stand. Today it is the town’s dining room, with tables set on terraces overlooking the river and the hills of Chomphet beyond.

Getting there

The Royal Ballet Theatre is in the grounds of the Royal Palace, entered from Sisavangvong Road. Performances are usually held on a few evenings a week; check the current schedule and buy tickets at the box office or through your guesthouse.

The Mekong riverfront is a few minutes’ walk from the palace.

A suggested plan

1. 17:00Watch the sunset on the Mekong from a riverside terrace.
2. 18:00Walk to the palace grounds and take your seats early.
3. 18:30The performance, roughly an hour.
4. 19:45Walk along the riverfront under the lanterns.
5. 20:30Dinner of Luang Prabang dishes: or-lam, sai oua and sticky rice.

Where to stay

The old town, especially near the Mekong riverfront, puts you close to everything.

Good to know

• Read a short synopsis of the Ramayana before the show; it helps.
• Bring a light layer; the theatre is air-conditioned and evenings can be cool in winter.
• The town is quiet by around 11:30 pm; plan accordingly.