Batu Caves: 272 rainbow steps to a temple in the rock

A giant golden statue of Lord Murugan, a rainbow staircase and a cathedral-sized cave with a temple and shafts of light falling through the roof.

Area

Day trips

Start from

Kuala Lumpur

Distance

about 13 km north

Time needed

half a day

Best season

All year; early morning; Thaipusam in January or February

Difficulty

Moderate

Transport

KTM Komuter to Batu Caves station

Tickets & rules

Temple Cave free; dress code (knees covered, sarongs for rent); fees for some side caves

Why go

Batu Caves is the most dramatic sight near Kuala Lumpur. A limestone cliff rises out of the suburbs, and at its foot stands a golden statue of Lord Murugan, nearly 43 metres tall, glittering in the sun. Behind him, a steep staircase of 272 steps, painted in rainbow colours, leads up into a huge cave.

The climb is hot but short. At the top you enter the Temple Cave, a vast hall of rock nearly 100 metres high, with openings in the roof that let in beams of light and dripping water. Shrines with bright statues of Hindu gods are set within the cave, and the sound of bells and chanting echoes off the walls.

Monkeys are everywhere, as cheeky as they are photogenic. At the foot of the cliff are the Ramayana Cave with its colourful dioramas and other temples. Go early: by mid-morning the heat and crowds build fast.

The story

The limestone hills here are around 400 million years old. The caves were known to the local Temuan people, and were described by the American naturalist William Hornaday in 1878. Soon after, a Tamil merchant, K. Thamboosamy Pillay, who also founded the Sri Mahamariamman temple in KL, was inspired by the cave’s shape, said to resemble the spear of Lord Murugan, and dedicated a temple to the god in the 1890s.

Today Batu Caves is the centre of Thaipusam, the Tamil festival held in January or February. Hundreds of thousands of pilgrims climb the steps, many carrying kavadi, decorated frames, and some with hooks or skewers through their skin, in fulfilment of vows. A silver chariot procession comes from Chinatown the night before.

The golden statue was unveiled in 2006, and the stairs were painted in rainbow colours in 2018, making them an instant photography icon. There’s also the Dark Cave, a protected cave system with rare species including a trapdoor spider found nowhere else; guided tours have been suspended at times, so check.

Getting there

Take the KTM Komuter train from KL Sentral to Batu Caves station, the last stop on the line, about 30–40 minutes. The station is right at the foot of the caves. A Grab takes 25–40 minutes depending on traffic.

A suggested plan

1. 7:00Take an early train or Grab to arrive soon after opening.
2. 7:45Climb the 272 steps before it gets hot.
3. 8:30Explore the Temple Cave and the upper cave with its opening to the sky.
4. 9:30Visit the Ramayana Cave and the temples at the foot of the hill.
5. 10:30Breakfast of thosai or vadai at the vegetarian restaurants near the station.

Where to stay

Most people visit from central KL; KL Sentral is ideal for the direct train.

Good to know

• Wear clothes covering the knees, or rent a sarong at the bottom.
• Carry nothing in your hands, and close bags with food.
• Thaipusam is spectacular but extremely crowded; arrive before dawn if you go.
• Bring water; the climb is steep and humid.