Medeu, Shymbulak and the Talgar Pass by cable car

From an ice rink to a glacier view at over 3,000 metres, all on one ticket and without breaking a sweat.

Region

Almaty region

Start from

Almaty

Distance

about 15–25 km

Time needed

1 day

Best season

All year (ski season December – April)

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

City bus or taxi to Medeu, then gondolas

Permits

None; cable car tickets

Why go

Medeu is a giant high-altitude outdoor skating rink built in the 1970s, famous for the speed-skating records once set on its fast mountain ice. Above it, a modern gondola climbs to Shymbulak, the city's ski resort, and two more chairlifts continue up to the Talgar Pass at a little over 3,100 metres.

In winter this is where Almaty goes skiing. In summer it becomes the easiest way to stand at glacier level: from the top of the pass you look straight across at the Tuyuksu glacier and the jagged peaks of the Zailiysky Alatau.

It's touristy, yes, but it's also a perfect first day in Almaty: you get the scale of the mountains, a sense of how close they are to the city, and a decent lunch with a view.

The story

The skating rink opened in 1972 at almost 1,700 metres. The altitude, the clean mountain water used for the ice and the cold, dry air made the ice unusually fast, and many speed-skating records were set here in the following years.

Just above the rink is the Medeu dam, one of the most interesting engineering stories in the region. It was created in 1966–67 by a series of directed explosions that brought down mountain slopes to block the gorge, designed to stop mudflows heading for the city. In 1973 a massive mudflow came down the valley and the dam held it back, almost certainly saving large parts of Almaty.

Shymbulak itself began as a simple training base for Soviet alpine skiers. Today it's a modern resort, but on a clear winter morning, with the city hidden under its smog layer below and the peaks lit pink above, it still feels like a secret place.

Getting there

City buses run from the centre up Dostyk Avenue to Medeu; a taxi takes 25–30 minutes. From the Medeu complex, walk to the gondola station. Tickets are sold at the bottom; the price for the full ride to Talgar Pass is higher than to Shymbulak only.

In winter, buy ski passes online the day before; queues at the ticket office on Saturday mornings can be long.

A suggested plan

1. MorningStart at Medeu. In winter, rent skates and do a few laps on the rink; in summer, climb the famous long staircase above the dam if you want a workout.
2. MiddayGondola to Shymbulak, then the chairlifts to Talgar Pass. Spend half an hour at the top; the air is thin and cold.
3. AfternoonHave lunch at Shymbulak, then walk down part of the way on the road towards Medeu if your legs allow.
4. EveningBack in the city by sunset. Kok-Tobe hill is a good place to watch the lights come on.

Where to stay

Day trip from Almaty. Shymbulak has a hotel for skiers who want first tracks in the morning.

Good to know

• Sunscreen and sunglasses are essential at the top, especially on snow.
• Weather changes quickly; lifts to the pass close in strong wind.
• Weekday mornings are the quietest time for the gondola.