Practical tips for Kazakhstan

The things I wish someone had told me before my first trips around the country.

Seasons

Kazakhstan is huge and its climate is strongly continental. For mountains around Almaty, the best window is June to September. For deserts and canyons (Charyn, Altyn-Emel, Mangystau), go in spring or autumn; summer is brutally hot. The north is pleasant from June to August and very cold in winter.

Getting around

Trains are comfortable and cheap, and new fast trains link the main cities. Book through the official railway website or app. Domestic flights save days on long distances. In cities, use Yandex Go or similar apps for taxis. For remote places you will usually need a 4×4 with a local driver.

Border zones

Large areas near the borders with China, Kyrgyzstan and Russia require special permits, including parts of the Altai and some mountain areas near Almaty. Apply well in advance through a local agency or the relevant national park.

National parks

Most parks charge a small entry fee per person and per car. Some, such as Altyn-Emel and Aksu-Zhabagly, require permits and a ranger escort. Rules can change, so check before you go.

Money

Cards are widely accepted in cities, but carry cash for villages, guesthouses and markets. ATMs are easy to find in towns.

Connectivity

Buying a local SIM card is easy in the main cities with your passport. Coverage is good in towns and along major roads but disappears quickly in the mountains and desert. Download offline maps before you go.

Language

Kazakh and Russian are both widely spoken; English is limited outside hotels and tourist businesses. A translation app helps a lot, and a few words of Kazakh are always appreciated.

Hospitality

Hospitality is taken seriously. If you're invited for tea, you'll probably get a full meal. Accept at least a little of what's offered, take your shoes off indoors, and bring a small gift if you visit a home.

Safety

Kazakhstan is generally safe for travellers. The main risks are natural: mountain weather, heat in the desert, long distances without services. Tell someone your plans when you go off the beaten track.