Nacpan and Calitang: the twin beaches
Four kilometres of golden sand backed by coconut palms, with a hill above the twin bays that rewards a short climb with one of Palawan’s classic views.
- Area
- El Nido & Bacuit Bay
- Start from
- El Nido town
- Distance
- about 17 km north of town
- Time needed
- 1 day
- Best season
- November – May
- Difficulty
- Easy
- Transport
- Scooter, tricycle or shared van
- Tickets & rules
- Small environmental or parking fee sometimes collected at the entrance
Why go
After a few days on boats, Nacpan is a different kind of joy. It’s a single long arc of sand, about four kilometres of it, with no cliffs at all: just palms, low hills and the open sea curving away in both directions. On weekdays outside high season you can walk for half an hour and pass only a dog and a fisherman mending nets.
At the northern end, Nacpan meets Calitang Beach, separated by a narrow strip of land so that the two bays sit back to back. Climb the small hill at the junction and you see them together, two crescents of sand and two shades of blue. The view is famous, but even knowing it from photographs, I stood up there for a long time.
The day here is simple: swim, walk, eat grilled fish at one of the beach shacks, nap in the shade, and stay for sunset over the water. The sea can be rough and the surf higher than in Bacuit Bay, which brings a sound and energy that the sheltered lagoons never have.
The story
For a long time Nacpan was reached only by a rough dirt road, and that difficulty kept it almost empty while El Nido town grew. The road has since been improved and the beach has acquired a few bars, cottages and a glamping site, but it remains far less developed than the south of the bay.
Calitang, the smaller twin, is home to a fishing village whose boats sit pulled up on the sand. Morning is the time to see them come in, with families helping to haul nets and sort the catch on the beach. It is a working coast, and a gentle reminder that the views tourists come for are also people’s home.
Locals tell visitors that Nacpan’s turtles still come ashore to nest at night in certain months. Whether you see one is a matter of luck, but some beach staff mark nests with sticks and tape, and it is worth asking about them before you walk the sand in the dark.
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Getting there
The easiest way is to rent a scooter in El Nido and ride north on the main road, then follow the signed turn-off toward the coast. The ride takes around 40 minutes. Tricycles and shared vans also make the trip; agree on a price and a pick-up time before you set off.
Some agencies sell Nacpan as a land tour combined with waterfalls such as Nagkalit-kalit; ask locally which ones are running in your season.
A suggested plan
- MorningRide north from El Nido, stopping at viewpoints along the coast.
- Late morningWalk the long beach south from the parking area.
- MiddayLunch at a beach shack: grilled fish, rice and fresh coconut.
- AfternoonClimb the twin beach viewpoint, then swim at Calitang.
- SunsetWatch the sun drop into the sea, then ride back carefully before full dark.
Where to stay
Most people stay in El Nido and visit for a day, but a night or two at Nacpan itself in a cottage or simple glamping tent is a real escape, with stars, surf and almost no lights.
Good to know
- Go on a weekday for an almost empty beach.
- Bring cash; card payments are rare and there is no ATM nearby.
- Wear a helmet and ride slowly on the coastal road; it has sudden curves and loose gravel.
- Rip currents and strong surf appear at times; swim near others and stay out of the water when flags are up or locals advise against it.
- Coconuts fall from palms; don’t nap directly beneath them.
- Riding back after dark is risky on the unlit roads; leave in daylight.