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Tabon Caves: the cradle of Philippine civilisation

A remote limestone headland where archaeologists found some of the oldest human remains in the Philippines and the extraordinary Manunggul burial jar.

Tabon Caves: the cradle of Philippine civilisation
Photo: Pbmaise · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Area
The deep south
Start from
Puerto Princesa city
Distance
about 150 km south to Quezon, then a short boat ride
Time needed
1–2 days
Best season
November – May
Difficulty
Moderate
Transport
Bus or van to Quezon town, then a boat to Lipuun Point
Tickets & rules
Entrance fee at the site museum; guided visits

Why go

The Tabon Caves are not dramatic in the way El Nido’s cliffs are, but for me they were one of the most memorable visits in Palawan. On Lipuun Point, a forested limestone headland reached by a short boat ride from the town of Quezon, a network of caves holds evidence of human life stretching back tens of thousands of years.

A guide leads you up wooden stairs to the main Tabon Cave, a great high-ceilinged chamber opening toward the sea. There is little to see on the floor today, as the finds are in museums, but standing in the cool shade looking out over the water, it is easy to imagine people sheltering here long before writing, farming or boats like the ones that brought you.

The site museum by the landing explains the excavations and the finds with photographs and replicas. Afterward, Quezon itself is a quiet provincial town with a market and a long, peaceful coastline, far from the tourist trail.

The story

In 1962, a team led by the American anthropologist Robert Fox, working with the National Museum of the Philippines, began excavations here. They found a fragment of a human skull and other remains, now known as the Tabon Man. Later dating of fossils from the cave suggests that humans were present here as far back as roughly 47,000 years ago, though estimates have varied.

Another cave on the headland, Manunggul, gave up one of the country’s most famous artefacts: the Manunggul Jar, a burial jar from roughly 2,800 years ago. Its lid shows two figures in a boat, thought to represent a soul being carried to the afterlife. The jar is a National Cultural Treasure and is displayed at the National Museum in Manila; its image once appeared on the Philippine 1,000-peso banknote.

The site is often called the ‘cradle of Philippine civilisation’. The phrase is a little grand, but it captures what the caves have taught archaeologists: that Palawan, once connected more closely to Borneo by land and shallow seas, was a crossroads for early human movement in Southeast Asia.

Photo: Alexcooper1 (talk · contribs) · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Getting there

From Puerto Princesa, buses and vans run south to Quezon, a journey of about three to four hours. From Quezon’s port, boats to Lipuun Point take around 30 minutes; arrange them at the site office or with local boatmen.

The site has limited opening hours and boats depend on the sea; check in advance with the site office or the National Museum’s regional branch. Leaving Puerto Princesa early makes a day trip possible but long.

A suggested plan

  1. MorningBus or van from Puerto Princesa to Quezon.
  2. MiddayBoat to Lipuun Point and visit the site museum.
  3. AfternoonClimb to Tabon Cave with a guide.
  4. Late afternoonReturn by boat and explore Quezon’s market.
  5. EveningOvernight in Quezon or return to Puerto Princesa.

Where to stay

Quezon has simple guesthouses and a few beach cottages; staying overnight allows an unhurried visit to the caves, a walk along the quiet seafront in the evening and an early bus back to Puerto Princesa the next morning.

Good to know

  • Bring water and sturdy footwear.
  • Check opening hours before you go.
  • Combine with nearby beaches or waterfalls.
Watch out
  • Cave floors and wooden stairs can be slippery after rain.
  • Boats may not run in bad weather; keep a spare day.
  • Don’t touch the cave walls or remove anything; the site is protected by law.

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