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Singapore: 20 routes

A small, green, impossibly tidy island city where Chinese, Malay, Indian and Peranakan worlds meet over hawker tables, rainforest trails and quiet shophouse streets.

I arrived in Singapore expecting a shopping mall with an airport attached, and I left a week later with sore legs, a notebook full of hawker stall numbers and a roll of film that was mostly trees. The city is famous for its glass towers and its rules, but what stays with me is how much of it is still forest, how many temples stand side by side on a single street, and how seriously everyone takes lunch. It rewards walking, even in the heat, as long as you start early and duck into the cool when the sun is high.

These twenty routes are how I learned the island: neighbourhood walks, food trails, rainforest loops, boat rides to small islands and a couple of trips across the water to Malaysia and Indonesia. Most need only half a day and an MRT card. Leave space for the afternoon thunderstorms; they pass, and the evenings are long and warm.

Gardens by the Bay: Supertrees, domes and a cloud forest

Marina Bay & the riverhalf a day, ideally afternoon into eveningEasy

Steel trees wrapped in ferns and orchids, two vast glass domes holding the climates of other continents, and a nightly light show you watch lying on your back.

A night walk around Marina Bay

Marina Bay & the riverone evening, 2–3 hoursEasy

An evening loop around the water past the Merlion, the Helix Bridge and the lit-up towers, timed to catch the free light and water show from the promenade.

Along the Singapore River: quays, bridges and bumboats

Marina Bay & the riverhalf a dayEasy

Follow the river where the city began, from the old merchant godowns of Boat Quay to the bars of Clarke Quay and the quiet tree-lined banks of Robertson Quay.

Chinatown: temples, shophouses and a hawker lunch

Heritage quartershalf a day to a full dayEasy

A Hindu temple, a mosque and Chinese temples on the same few streets, quiet shophouse lanes and the biggest hawker centre in the city for lunch.

Little India: flowers, spices and temple bells

Heritage quartershalf a dayEasy

Jasmine garlands, gold shops and curry steam along Serangoon Road, colourful temples and a wet market where Singapore's Indian community has shopped for generations.

Kampong Glam: the Sultan Mosque, Arab Street and Haji Lane

Heritage quartershalf a dayEasy

A golden-domed mosque, fabric shops, murtabak stalls and narrow painted lanes in the old Malay and Arab quarter of the city.

A rainy day in the Civic District: galleries, museums and Fort Canning

Heritage quarters1 dayEasy

Old colonial halls turned into some of Asia's finest museums, joined by short walks under covered walkways and a green hill full of history.

A hawker centre trail: Maxwell, Lau Pa Sat and Old Airport Road

Heritage quarters1 day, eating slowlyEasy

A day of eating across three classic hawker centres, from chicken rice in Chinatown to satay under a Victorian iron roof and dinner where planes once landed.

Singapore Botanic Gardens and the National Orchid Garden

Green Singaporehalf a dayEasy

A tropical garden with more than 160 years of history, a lake full of swans, a patch of old rainforest and the world's most famous orchid collection.

The Southern Ridges and Henderson Waves

Green Singaporehalf a day to 1 dayModerate

A ridge-top walk through forest and parks, over a wave-shaped bridge high above the treetops and along elevated walkways to a hill with a wartime story.

MacRitchie Reservoir and the TreeTop Walk

Green Singaporehalf a dayModerate

A long rainforest loop around the city's oldest reservoir, with a swaying suspension bridge high in the treetops and monkeys, monitor lizards and kingfishers along the way.

The Night Safari at Mandai

Green Singaporeone eveningEasy

A nocturnal zoo in the forest north of the city, where leopards, tapirs and fishing cats move through dimly lit enclosures and a tram glides past in the dark.

Sungei Buloh wetlands and the Kranji countryside

Green Singapore1 dayEasy

Mangrove boardwalks where crocodiles bask on mudbanks and shorebirds from Siberia rest, followed by farms, goats and a wartime memorial in the quiet north-west.

Pulau Ubin: bicycles, kampong houses and Chek Jawa

Islands & coast1 dayModerate

A short bumboat ride to Singapore's last village island, where you cycle dirt roads past old wooden houses, flooded quarries and a wetland of mangroves and seagrass.

Sentosa beyond the theme parks: forts, beaches and the southern point

Islands & coast1 dayEasy

Walk across the water to an island of old coastal guns, quiet beaches and a little suspension bridge that leads to the self-styled southernmost point of continental Asia.

Kusu, St John's and Lazarus: a day on the Southern Islands

Islands & coast1 dayEasy

A short ferry to small islands with a turtle legend, a hilltop shrine, an old quarantine station and a quiet crescent of white sand.

Joo Chiat and Katong: Peranakan houses, laksa and the east coast

Neighbourhoodshalf a day to 1 dayEasy

Pastel terrace houses with ornate tiles, Peranakan kueh and a bowl of Katong laksa, then a stroll to the sea breezes of East Coast Park.

Haw Par Villa: the Tiger Balm garden and the Ten Courts of Hell

Neighbourhoods2–3 hoursEasy

A strange and wonderful hillside garden of more than a thousand painted statues, folk tales and moral lessons, built by the brothers who made Tiger Balm.

Across the Causeway: a day in Johor Bahru

Day trips1 dayEasy

A short ride across the Causeway into Malaysia for old mosques, Chinese temples, a heritage street of coffee shops and cheaper, louder, wonderfully different food.

Bintan and Penyengat Island: a ferry to the Riau islands

Day trips2–3 daysModerate

A ferry to the Indonesian island of Bintan, a small boat to the old royal island of Penyengat and a yellow mosque said to be held together with egg whites.

Prices, opening hours and rules change. Treat these notes as a starting point and check current information before you go.