Joo Chiat and Katong: Peranakan houses, laksa and the east coast

Pastel terrace houses with ornate tiles, Peranakan kueh and a bowl of Katong laksa, then a stroll to the sea breezes of East Coast Park.

Area

Neighbourhoods

Start from

Eunos or Marine Parade MRT

Distance

about 5 km on foot, plus East Coast Park

Time needed

half a day to 1 day

Best season

All year; Hari Raya lights at Geylang Serai

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

MRT to Eunos, Paya Lebar, Marine Parade or Marine Terrace

Tickets & rules

None

Why go

Joo Chiat and Katong are the neighbourhoods I would choose if I lived in Singapore. They lie in the east, between the old Malay heartland of Geylang Serai and the sea, and they feel residential, relaxed and lived-in, with old shophouses, family bakeries, small temples and churches, and some of the city's best food.

The highlight for photographers is Koon Seng Road, where rows of Peranakan terrace houses are painted in soft pinks, blues and greens, with decorative tiles, carved doors and swing gates. Walk slowly along the side streets and you will find many more, less famous but just as pretty, often with old-fashioned potted plants and grandparents sitting outside.

Then there is the food. Katong laksa, a rich coconut curry noodle soup eaten with a spoon because the noodles are cut short, is the dish everyone talks about. Peranakan shops sell kueh, small colourful cakes of rice flour, coconut and palm sugar, and rice dumplings wrapped in bamboo leaves.

The story

In the 19th century this part of the coast was covered with coconut plantations and the seaside villas of wealthy families. Joo Chiat Road is named after Chew Joo Chiat, a Chinese landowner who bought much of the land in the early 20th century, and the area developed into a suburb for Peranakan and Eurasian families who wanted to live near the sea.

The Peranakans gave the neighbourhood its style. Their houses, built mostly in the 1920s and 1930s, mix Chinese, Malay and European influences: Corinthian columns, Chinese carved panels, glazed tiles from Europe and Japan, and a Malay love of colour. Inside, many have a central airwell to let in light and air.

The original seafront ran along what is now East Coast Road. In the 1960s and 1970s the land in front was reclaimed, creating space for housing estates and the long East Coast Park, which stretches for about 15 kilometres along the shore. Old residents remember walking from their houses straight onto the beach.

Next to Joo Chiat is Geylang Serai, the heart of the Malay community, whose market and food centre are busy every morning. Before Hari Raya, at the end of Ramadan, the area fills with lights and a huge bazaar.

Getting there

Take the MRT to Eunos or Paya Lebar for the northern end of Joo Chiat Road, or to Marine Parade on the Thomson-East Coast line for Katong. Buses run along East Coast Road.

From Katong it is a 15–20 minute walk through housing estates and an underpass to East Coast Park.

A suggested plan

1. 8:30 amBreakfast at Geylang Serai Market: nasi lemak or mee rebus.
2. 9:30 amWalk down Joo Chiat Road and turn into Koon Seng Road for the terrace houses.
3. 11:00 amVisit a Peranakan shop and taste kueh and rice dumplings.
4. 12:30 pmKatong laksa for lunch on East Coast Road.
5. 2:00 pmWalk to East Coast Park and rent a bicycle along the seafront.
6. 6:00 pmSeafood dinner at the East Coast Lagoon Food Village as the sun goes down.

Where to stay

Joo Chiat and Katong have boutique hotels in converted shophouses, and the new MRT stations make them easy to reach. It is a calmer alternative to the city centre.

Good to know

• The terrace houses are private homes; photograph from the street and keep your voice down.
• Bike rental is available in East Coast Park.
• Go to Geylang Serai early; the market is busiest in the morning.
• Some older shops close on certain weekdays.