Practical tips: Chiang Mai

What I wish I'd known before my first trip.

Entry and visas

Many nationalities can enter Thailand visa-free or with a visa on arrival for a limited stay, but the rules change from time to time, so check the current requirements for your passport before you travel. Chiang Mai International Airport has direct flights from Bangkok and several Asian cities. Keep your passport valid for at least six months, and carry a copy of the photo page when you are out exploring.

Getting there

From Bangkok you can fly in about an hour, take an overnight sleeper train of roughly eleven to thirteen hours, or ride a long-distance bus for about ten hours. The sleeper train is slow but a lovely experience, especially in a lower berth with the window to yourself. The airport is close to the old city, around fifteen minutes by Grab or taxi.

Getting around

Red songthaews are the city's shared taxis: flag one down, say your destination and agree on the fare before getting in. Grab and Bolt work well and avoid haggling. The old city is very walkable, and bicycles are pleasant in the quiet lanes. Scooters are cheap to rent, but only ride if you are experienced, licensed and insured, and always wear a helmet.

Seasons and smoke

The cool season from November to February brings clear skies, warm days and chilly nights in the mountains, and is the most popular time. March to May is hot, and from roughly February to April the north suffers heavy haze from agricultural and forest fires, sometimes with very poor air quality. The rains from June to October bring green landscapes, afternoon storms and fewer visitors.

Money

The currency is the Thai baht. ATMs are everywhere in the city but charge a fixed fee per withdrawal on foreign cards, so take out larger sums less often. Markets, songthaews and small restaurants are cash only. Carry small notes for markets and temple donations, and keep cash for trips to mountain villages, where ATMs are rare.

Temple etiquette

Cover your shoulders and knees, take off your shoes before entering halls, and never point your feet at a Buddha image or touch someone's head. Women should not touch monks or hand objects to them directly. Some northern temples do not allow women into certain halls or near relic chedis; signs usually explain, and it is best to respect them quietly.

Health

Drink bottled or filtered water, use sunscreen, and protect yourself from mosquitoes, especially in the rainy season, as dengue occurs in the north. Pharmacies are well stocked, and Chiang Mai has good private hospitals. During the smoky season, people with breathing problems should check air-quality readings daily and consider masks. Travel insurance that covers scooter use is wise.

Safety and scams

Chiang Mai is generally relaxed and safe, but watch for the usual petty scams: tuk-tuk drivers offering cheap tours that end at gem or tailor shops, inflated prices for foreigners, and unofficial guides near temples. Scooter rental shops may claim you damaged their bike, so photograph it before riding off and never leave your passport as a deposit.

SIM cards and connectivity

Tourist SIM cards from the main Thai mobile networks are sold at the airport and in convenience stores, with generous data packages. You need your passport to register. Coverage is good in the city and along main roads, but can be patchy in remote mountain valleys, so download offline maps before heading to Pai, Chiang Dao or Doi Inthanon.

Festivals

Chiang Mai is famous for Yi Peng and Loy Krathong in November, when lanterns float on the river and glow along the moat; mass sky-lantern releases are now tightly regulated and ticketed. Songkran in mid-April turns the moat into a city-wide water fight. Book accommodation well ahead for both, and expect higher prices.