Koh Phangan beyond the Full Moon Party

Jungle hills, quiet bays and a slower island rhythm, just across the water from Samui.

Area

Island hopping

Start from

Samui

Distance

about 30–60 minutes by boat

Time needed

1 day or a few nights

Best season

January – September

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

Ferry or speedboat from Samui's north coast

Tickets & rules

None

Why go

Koh Phangan is world-famous for one night a month: the Full Moon Party on Haad Rin beach. But the rest of the island, and the rest of the month, is surprisingly calm. Most of Phangan is jungle-covered hills, quiet beaches and small villages.

Bottle Beach in the north is reachable by boat or a hiking trail and feels wonderfully remote. Thong Nai Pan on the east coast has two lovely bays. Inland there are waterfalls, viewpoints and a scattering of yoga retreats and vegetarian cafés.

Even a day trip shows you a different side of the Gulf islands: less polished than Samui, more relaxed and a little bohemian.

The story

For a long time Koh Phangan was poorer and less developed than Samui, an island of coconut farms and fishing villages with no proper roads.

The Full Moon Party started in the mid-1980s as a small gathering of travellers on Haad Rin beach and grew into a huge monthly event attracting thousands.

Meanwhile, the rest of the island has kept much of its old character. Many families still farm coconuts and fish, and some beaches can still only be reached by boat.

Getting there

Ferries and speedboats run several times a day from piers on Samui's north coast to Thong Sala, Phangan's main town, and some go directly to Haad Rin. From Thong Sala, taxis (pick-up trucks) take you around the island.

A suggested plan

1. MorningFerry to Thong Sala; breakfast at the market near the pier.
2. MiddayTaxi to Thong Nai Pan or a boat to Bottle Beach; swim and laze.
3. AfternoonVisit a waterfall or viewpoint on the way back.
4. EveningLast ferry to Samui, or stay and enjoy the Thong Sala walking street if it's a Saturday.

Where to stay

From simple bungalows to boutique resorts. Choose your area carefully: Haad Rin for parties, the north and east for quiet.

Good to know

• Check the moon calendar: around the Full Moon Party, ferries and rooms are packed.
• Taxis are safer than renting a scooter on Phangan's steep roads.
• Pack light; some beaches are reached by boat and stairs.