Practical tips: Koh Samui

What I wish I'd known before my first trip.

Weather

Samui follows the Gulf of Thailand pattern, which is different from Phuket and the Andaman coast. The main rainy season is roughly October to December, with November usually the wettest and windiest month; seas on the east coast can be rough and some boat trips stop. January to April is dry and sunny, and May to September is generally good too, with occasional short showers. When Phuket is wet in summer, Samui is often the better choice.

Getting there

Samui has its own small airport with an open-air terminal, but flights are limited and often expensive. A popular alternative is to fly to Surat Thani on the mainland and take a combined bus and ferry ticket; the car ferry crossing takes around one and a half hours. Speedboats also link Samui with Koh Phangan, Koh Tao and the mainland.

Scooters

Renting a scooter is how many visitors get around, and also how many get hurt. Roads in the interior are extremely steep, sand on corners is common and traffic can be chaotic. Wear a helmet, ride sober, check that your insurance covers motorbikes and that you have the right licence. If in doubt, use taxis.

Songthaews and taxis

Songthaews, the pick-up trucks with two benches in the back, run along the ring road during the day and are the cheapest way to travel between beaches. Flag one down and agree on the fare before you get in. Taxis are more expensive and often don't use meters, so negotiate first. Ride-hailing apps work in some areas.

Temple etiquette

Cover your shoulders and knees, take off your shoes before entering temple buildings and never point your feet towards a Buddha image or a monk. Women should not touch monks or hand them things directly. Keep your voice down, and remember that statues are sacred, not climbing frames.

Coconut culture

Coconuts are part of daily life: fresh coconut water at every market, coconut milk in curries, coconut sweets and coconut oil. Enjoy them, but avoid attractions that use monkeys for shows or picking, and look for farms and products that say clearly they don't.

Money

ATMs are everywhere but charge a fixed fee for foreign cards, so withdraw larger amounts less often. Cards work in hotels, supermarkets and many restaurants; markets, songthaews and small shops need cash. Tipping isn't obligatory, but rounding up or leaving small change is appreciated.

Sea safety

Red flags mean dangerous currents; take them seriously, especially on the east coast during the windy months. Many beaches have no lifeguards. Swim near other people, don't swim after drinking and keep away from areas used by jet skis and boats.

Jellyfish

Box jellyfish and other stinging jellyfish can appear in the Gulf, especially at certain times of the year. Some beaches have vinegar stations, which are used to treat stings; if someone is stung badly, call for medical help immediately. Ask locally whether stings have been reported recently and consider a full-length rash guard for long swims.

Respect and quiet

Samui can feel like a resort, but it is home to tens of thousands of people. Dress modestly away from the beach, ask before taking photos of people, keep noise down in villages at night and be patient: things move at island pace.