Burabay: lakes and granite in the northern forests

Pine forests, clear lakes and granite boulders in the middle of the steppe: the north's favourite weekend escape.

Region

North & Centre

Start from

Astana

Distance

about 250 km

Time needed

2–3 days

Best season

June – September; winter for snow lovers

Difficulty

Easy

Transport

Train or bus from Astana to Burabay/Shchuchinsk

Permits

National park entry fee

Why go

Burabay (also called Borovoe) is often nicknamed 'the Kazakh Switzerland'. After hours of flat steppe north of Astana, granite hills covered with pine and birch suddenly rise up, surrounding a cluster of lakes.

The best-known sights are the rock of Zhumbaktas, the 'Sphinx' rising from Lake Burabay, and the Okzhetpes rock, said to look like an elephant or a reclining camel depending on your imagination. Legends about Ablai Khan and heroic battles are attached to almost every hill.

In summer it's a resort: boats, beaches and walking trails. In autumn the birches turn gold, and in winter it's a snowy forest close to the capital.

The story

Okzhetpes means roughly 'an arrow can't reach it'. A legend tells of a beautiful girl captured during a war who promised to marry whoever could shoot an arrow to the top of the rock. No one could, and she threw herself into the lake, becoming the rock Zhumbaktas.

The clearing of Ablai Khan, surrounded by granite boulders, is said to be the place where the eighteenth-century khan gathered his warriors before battles against the Dzungars. A stone throne marks the spot.

In the Soviet period, Burabay became a well-known sanatorium area, and some of the old buildings still stand among the pines next to brand-new resorts.

Getting there

Trains from Astana go to Burabay and Shchuchinsk stations; from there, taxis take you to the resort area. By car, it's around three hours on a good road.

Some resorts run shuttles from the station.

A suggested plan

1. Day 1Arrive, walk along Lake Burabay to the Zhumbaktas viewpoint.
2. Day 2Hike up Bolektau or Okzhetpes area viewpoints; boat ride on the lake.
3. Day 3Visit Lake Shchuchye or Kotyrkol, then return to Astana.

Where to stay

Everything from sanatoriums and family hotels to modern resorts. Book early in summer.

Good to know

• Mosquitoes in June can be fierce; bring repellent.
• Early morning on the lake is calm and misty, perfect for photos.