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Karkaraly: pine forest and the Devil's Lake

Forested granite mountains rising out of the steppe, with a small dark lake at the top and a historic merchant town below.

Karkaraly: pine forest and the Devil's Lake
Photo: User:Wassily · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Region
North & Centre
Start from
Karaganda
Distance
about 220 km
Time needed
2 days
Best season
June – September
Difficulty
Moderate
Transport
Bus or car from Karaganda
Permits
National park entry fee

Why go

Karkaraly is an island of pine forest and granite hills in the dry steppe east of Karaganda. The national park offers easy hiking, cool air in summer and wide views across the plains.

A popular hike leads up to Shaitankol, the 'Devil's Lake', a small dark lake surrounded by rocks and trees, with plenty of local legends about it.

The small town of Karkaralinsk was once an important trading post and has old merchant houses, a mosque and a museum telling the region's history.

The story

A legend says the name Karkaraly comes from 'karkara', a woman's headdress decorated with feathers, lost by a girl in the mountains. Another version connects it to the shape of the mountains themselves.

In the nineteenth century, the area was famous for the Koyandy fair, one of the largest trade fairs in the Kazakh steppe, where merchants traded livestock, wool, fabrics and tea between the nomads and Russian and Central Asian traders. Karkaralinsk's merchant houses date from that time.

The town was also connected with the Alash movement of the early twentieth century, Kazakh intellectuals who campaigned for national autonomy.

Photo: S. Reznichenko (Kgnpp) · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Getting there

Buses run from Karaganda to Karkaralinsk; drive time is around three hours. From town, taxis or your own car take you to trailheads.

Some trails start right from the edge of town.

A suggested plan

  1. Day 1Arrive, visit the town museum and old streets, short walk in the forest.
  2. Day 2Hike to Shaitankol lake and the surrounding viewpoints, then return to Karaganda.

Where to stay

Guesthouses in Karkaralinsk and recreation centres in the park.

Good to know

  • Mushroom and berry season in late summer is lovely.
  • Trails are not always well marked; use an offline map.
Watch out
  • Ticks are active in late spring and early summer; check yourself after walks.
  • Fires are strictly prohibited in the forest.

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