Practical tips: Hanoi & the north

What I wish I'd known before my first trip.

Visas and entry

Vietnam offers e-visas to most nationalities, valid for up to 90 days and applied for online through the official government portal. Citizens of a number of countries can enter visa-free for a limited stay. Rules change, so check the current list before you go and use only the official site, not look-alike agencies that charge extra. Your passport should be valid for at least six months.

Money

The currency is the Vietnamese dong. Notes have many zeros: the 500,000 and 20,000 notes are similar in colour and easy to confuse, so check each one. Cash is king at street stalls, markets and in the mountains; cards and QR payments work in hotels, larger restaurants and many shops. ATMs are common in cities. Tipping is not expected but welcome for guides, rowers and drivers.

Getting around

In Hanoi, use ride-hailing apps such as Grab for cars and motorbikes; prices are fixed in advance. Metro lines exist but cover limited areas. For trips further afield, sleeper buses and limousine vans run to Ninh Binh, Sa Pa, Ha Giang and the coast, and trains run on the North–South line and to Lao Cai. Book long-distance tickets a day or two ahead in high season.

Seasons

The north has real seasons. Winter, from December to February, is cool and often grey with drizzle, around 10–18°C in Hanoi and colder in the mountains. Summer, May to August, is hot and humid with heavy showers and typhoon risk on the coast. Autumn, September to November, and spring, March and April, are the best times. Tet, the lunar new year, closes many businesses for days.

Health

Drink bottled or filtered water. Air quality in Hanoi can be poor in winter; check a pollution app and consider a mask. Mosquitoes carry dengue in the rainy season, so use repellent. Pharmacies are everywhere. For anything serious, international clinics in Hanoi offer English-speaking care; good travel insurance is essential, especially if you plan to ride motorbikes.

Traffic and safety

Hanoi is generally safe, but the traffic is chaotic. To cross a road, walk slowly and steadily without stopping suddenly; drivers will flow around you. Look both ways even on one-way streets. Bag snatching from motorbikes is rare but possible, so keep phones and bags away from the roadside. Motorbike accidents are the main risk for travellers.

Etiquette

Dress modestly at temples and pagodas, with shoulders and knees covered, and take off your shoes where others do. Use both hands to pass or receive something from an older person. Keep your voice down and avoid public displays of anger; losing face is a big deal. Ask before photographing people, especially in minority villages.

Scams and pitfalls

Common tricks include fruit sellers offering photos with their baskets and then charging, shoe repairers fixing shoes uninvited, unmetered or rigged taxis, and copycat travel agencies using the names of popular companies. Use ride-hailing apps, agree prices before services, and book tours from well-reviewed operators. Count your change carefully.

SIM cards and connectivity

Local SIM cards from major operators such as Viettel, Vinaphone and Mobifone are cheap and offer generous data; registration requires a passport. You can buy one at the airport on arrival or use an eSIM. Mobile data is fast in cities and decent even on most mountain roads, though coverage drops in the deepest valleys.

Language

English is spoken in hotels, many cafés and tourist areas, but less so in markets and the mountains. Learning a few Vietnamese words goes a long way: xin chao for hello, cam on for thank you. A translation app with offline Vietnamese helps, and showing the name of a dish or address written down saves misunderstandings.